The gentle bubbling sound against the hull roused us from sleep, a soothing yet lively noise. Soon, we spotted the source: two sea lion pups frolicking around theoat with joyful energy, revealing the vibrant natural world of Ecuador’s Galápagos Islands that enveloped us.
Having anchored in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on Isla San Cristóbal the day before, we found ourselves immersed in the renowned Galápagos environment. The journey aboard Wild Rye, a 1971 Wauquiez Centurion 32, had taken us on a 10-day, 1,000-mile voyage from Panama. To avoid the doldrums, we charted a southern course from Panama City, benefiting from the strong northerly winds before adjusting westward along the coast of South America, propelled by light south-easterlies.
Though the passage was relatively smooth, albeit slower than desired, the task of cleaning the hull 100 miles from Isla San Cristóbal proved challenging. We'd heard tales of cruisers being turned away for not having a clean hull, reinforcing the importance of preparation.
Approaching San Cristóbal after the longest journey yet was deeply gratifying. Passing beneath the towering Roca León Dormido, we carefully navigated into Puerto Baquerizo Moreno's harbor.
The bustling anchorage contrasted starkly with the vast openness we had become accustomed to, but we quickly received guidance from a water taxi driver, assisting us in finding a suitable anchoring spot. Barely having time to settle and brew some coffee, we were approached by the water taxi driver, accompanied by a group of stern-looking officials.
Galápagos' unique beauty is safeguarded by stringent entry regulations, imposing significant costs and requirements on visiting vessels. Compliance includes carrying an AIS transponder for tracking, hiring an agent, and enduring thorough inspections.
While the fees and restrictions may deter some, for us, the encounter with playful sea lions reaffirmed the decision to stop. Despite initial hesitations due to the expenses and regulations, we found immense joy in experiencing the Galápagos' natural wonders firsthand.
